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GalbraithMt.com's Ultimate Galbraith Mt. Guide
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kyle_splash_588pix.jpg (75071 bytes) Muddy fun -- Kyle Pennell rips through the big bog on the power line road near the top of the Lower Ridge Trail. (Photo by Daniel Sandberg) 
Mystic Secrets of the Mud Masters
IF YOU RIDE on Galbraith Mt., sooner or later (actually sooner, like today), you're going to have to learn how to deal with mud. Here are some Mystic Secrets of the Mud Masters.
Trails -- Generally speaking, the best trails to ride on Galbraith Mt. during the muddy season(s) are the Ridge Trail, the Candy Trails and several of the Arsenio trails (as opposed to Arsenio Hall). Purple Heart, Kung Fu Theater, Crazy 8s, 911, Dan's Trail, El Pollo Elastico and Upper and Lower Bob's Trail can be fairly good, but most of the south side is awful (e.g., Chutes and Ladders, Evil Twin, Lost Giants, and Nick and Pete). One positive exception on the South Side is the Bunny Trail, which retains much of its sweet character year 'round. The worst for mud are probably Cedar Dust, Kaiser. All the Tower trails used to be awful during the winter too, but Trillium's motorcycle ban has dramatically improved winter riding conditions in the Tower region.
Riding techniques -- Mud makes everything a little more challenging, but definitely not impossible. The most common mistake riders make when confronted with a huge mud puddle like the one above, is to try to steer around the edge of it. The best line, which is to say the line with the hardest trail surface and best traction, is often the line right through the middle of the puddle. (Riding around the margin also widens the trail tremendously, which increases its impact on the surrounding woods.)

Otherwise, all the standard techniques for dicey situations apply -- keep your weight centered for maximum control, use a light touch on the power and the brakes, and learn to anticipate the unexpected. This is especially true if you're airing it out -- depending on where you land, your bike may or may not behave at all the way you expect.

Equipment -- Tires are always an important consideration in mud. Steve Farrell at Fairhaven Bike & Mountain Sports recommends the European natural rubber compound tires, such Continentals, Hutchinsons and Michelins, as does Eric Moe at Kulshan Cycles. Conti Explorers and Verticals are great on the front, while Michelin Wildgripper Comps are hard to beat on the back. Kent DeVries at Jack's Bicycle Center recommends Tioga Factory Downhills and Geax Blades (the latter are particularly nice for the way the tread clears mud). Speaking of which, here's a tire tip: some people spray Pam (the vegetable oil for your frying pan) on their tires to keep the mud from sticking between the knobs. (Do NOT get the Pam on your brakes, though.) You won't need to do this with the Conti, Michelin or Geax tires mentioned above, but it can help if you're running tires with tightly spaced knobs like Specialized Rocksters.
The size of the tires is a matter of personal preference. Some people like 'em thin, some people like 'em fat. Kent DeVries likes to go wide (up to 2.5), while Galbraith legend Scott Fleanor likes to go thin (down to 1.5) in the back. One thing to watch, though -- if you choose a wide tire, make sure you've got enough clearance between your tire and your chain stays, or you'll clog up with mud.

Sealed cable systems are also popular in the winter because they keep the mud from screwing up your shifting and braking. Gore-tex lines are an effective solution (about $55), but you don't have to spend that much to get protection. The sealed cable system from Alligator and Jag Lines work just as well, and costs less than $20 at Fairhaven.

Another big issue during the mud season is lube. Just about everybody on Galbraith Mt. swears by ProLink. Another majority opinion: avoid wax based lubes like White Lightening.

Clothes -- What to wear to stay warm? Eric Moe at Kulshan recommends the excellent but pricey Sugoi Bosui stretch tights (featuring windproof material on front and breathable Lycra in the back). Kent DeVries at Jack's likes the Kona Primo pants over Lycra-type tights or knickers, while Steve Farrell at Fairhaven recommends Sealskin breathable, waterproof socks. Speaking of which, here's a sock tip: if you get Sealskins, be sure to buy a second pair of riding shoes that are one size larger than you normal shoes so you can wear Sealskins over your regular riding socks without cutting off the blood to your feet.

The late, lammented Base Camp used to offer the excellent Patagonia flier vest (which is wind proofed on the front and shoulders), along with Patagonia Capilene tops and bottoms until REI put it out of business (as with The Great Adventure before it).

Now you can Patagonia Capilene garments at REI, as well as a full selection of cycling tights from Zoic, Sugoi, Canari and Danskin.

perin_jacobchuk_022402.jpg (81398 bytes) Maintenance -- You know what they say about an ounce of prevention. Well, when it comes to riding in the mud on Galbraith, it'll not only save you money, it can make the difference between riding home and pushing your bike home. 

The first thing you want to do is clean and wax your bike. This will keep the gunk from sticking to the frame and eliminate a lot of problems down the trail. Some people use Lemon Pledge for this; other swear by natural carnuba wax (it really doesn't matter what brand). 

You should also clean your bike after every muddy ride with the hose, but remember -- don't spray the water directly at the bearing and seals. If your bike isn't too muddy (or if the mud dries before you get a chance to clean it), it's better to clean it with a rag, rather than hosing it.

The single most important thing to clean on your bike is the drive train. Wipe off and oil your chain with ProLink or a similar oil twice after every ride: once right after you wash it, and then the next day before you ride again.

You will probably need to "floss" between your gears with a rag and/or brush, and clean the pulley wheels on your derailleur too. After a really muddy ride, you may want to use a brush (an old toothbrush works great; just make sure it isn't your husband/wife's toothbrush) to clean between the links of your chain. 

If your bike has V-brakes, it's also very important to clean the rims on your wheels, as they can get encrusted with a lot of crud. Bikes with disc brakes don't need as much attention in this regard.

Finally, if you're riding in mud and hosing your bike a lot, don't forget to put a drop of oil on the pivot points of your pedals every few rides.

Happy trails!

 


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